Pho So Good!

In the 10th Century, Mongol herdsman migrated from China into Vietnam and introduced beef into the Vietnamese diet. Pho (pronounced 'fer') is, simply, beef noodle soup, one of the most popular dishes throughout Vietnam. There is a Pho restaurant or stall on almost every street. Ask any person here and they will have their favourite recommendation for Pho.




Pho begins its life the day before when oxtail, beef bones and scraps are simmered in a large pot for many hours along with a secret recipe of spices and herbs. The recipes varies with each vendor, some recipes have been handed down through generations.

In Hanoi, I am told that Pho Gia Truyen, at 49 Bat Dan in the Old Quarter, has a reputation for producing the best Pho Bo in town. They use purified water with a secret mix of herbs when making their broth, the meat is tender and succulent and they don't use MSG.




It's 9am when we approach Pho Gia Truyen and already there is a long queue out the door. It gives me a chance to check out the place – one central long wooden table and four smaller ones seating about 30 people inside and a dozen or so outside. High ceilings, bare walls and a kitchen counter at the front. The place is full of people, all sharing tables and they seem intensely focused on their Pho, slurping loudly and savouring each mouthful.

Back in line, Adam and I have to decide how we want our beef. We have a choice of raw or well done roast beef or a mix of both. We decide on 'chin' – well done. Behind the counter it looks like chaos but on closer inspection, they are all working in a brisk and methodical way.

Steam rises from an enormous pot on a fire, and one man's sole job for 5 hours is to ladle individual servings of noodles into a wire sieve. He plunges the noodles into the pot for 30 seconds and then places them into a bowl, the next man places some raw beef in his ladle and scoops up some steaming broth to start the process of cooking the beef, he drains the broth back into the pot and places the beef on top of the noodles. The bowl is then filled with the heady broth along with a handful of herbs.




Another lady is in charge of the roast beef. On an old wooden chopping block she deftly slices the beef into thin strips ready to be covered in hot broth.

We pull up some stools and squeeze onto a table. My bowl is filled to the brim, the scent of star anise, ginger, cinnamon and roast beef wafts up in a steamy plume under my nose. I am impressed by the flavour, it is outstanding on it's own, a rich beefy flavour, not too salty. It is perfect as it is but you can add fresh chillies, chilli sauce, lime juice, fish sauce and garlic vinegar if you so desire, or even a raw egg. When the broth is this good you don't need all the added fuss. I prefer mine quite simple with just a few fresh chillies. It is hearty yet light, the perfect breakfast to start the day.

As Adam and I scoff our broth, two young men shuffle in with a heavy side of beef wrapped in netting. They slap it down onto a large butchers block on the floor and begin to trim and prepare the meat for tomorrow's Pho. I really like how they are proud of their produce and they are not afraid to show what they do and how they prepare it whilst you are eating. There are no hidden kitchens here.






It is all on show and it is certainly not for the squeamish, the meat looks so fresh here and the Pho is so good,we will be back.